Instant Krazy Glue

This article is not about photography but because I have used Instant Krazy Glue a number of times already to build and fix photography stuff, I thought I'd mention a tidbit here. If you go buy Instant Krazy Glue, make sure to buy the 4-tube package.

See here: http://www.krazyglue.com/products/product_detail.asp?pc=KG867&g=10

The package contains 4 small tubes of Krazy Glue. This is great because often, I only needed a drop or two of the Glue. If you have used Krazy Glue before, you know once you open a tube, it is likely going to harden inside. Having these small tubes means if it hardens, I'd be wasting only one small tube instead of an entire big tube. Now, these small tubes do not have a cap so after use, if you want to store away the remainder, use cellophane wrap to wrap up the dispensing head air tight. After a month of storage, the tip of the dispensing head will harden so you may have to cut the tip the next time you need to use the tube. Needless to say, you need to be extra careful cutting the tip. You do not want any Glue to squirt out onto your fingers, face, etc.

I was able to store and use and re-use an opened tube this way for up to 5 months. Instant Krazy Glue is great!

D80 actuations

At the rate that I shoot, I fear my D80 will die from too many shutter actuations. I wondered then how many actuations it can bear. There is no definitive answer but then I thought some averaging might help.

I found this website where people post their numbers: http://www.olegkikin.com/shutterlife/nikon_d80.htm

It would appear the chances of the shutter dying increase significantly after 90K clicks.

My D80 might have about 3 more years left to go. By that time, I would have upgraded. I hope.

Stofen or Lightsphere?

My SB-800 speedlight came with a diffuser dome. When I bought it a couple of years ago, I did not know the Stofen omni-bounce is virtually the same as the diffuser dome. I got curious now, after building my DYI Lightsphere. I was curious to know if the Stofen is better or worse than my DYI Lightsphere.

So, I took a few shots inside my room. The diffuser dome was angled straight up and at 45 degrees. The DYI Lightsphere pointed straight up.

When the diffuser dome was angled at 45 degrees, it created fairly sharp and dark shadows. Everything that was lit was bright. My blue wall looked a little washed out, but this is definitely better than shooting without the diffuser dome.

When pointed straight up, the dome created softer shadows, and the blue of the wall was bluer than the first shot.

With the DYI Lightsphere, the shadows are much softer still, and the blue of the wall has a similar tone as the blue of the second shot.

From the few shots I took, it looks like the DYI Lightsphere would create a more pleasing photo than the diffuser dome. However, my DYI Lightsphere is much bigger than the diffuser dome. When I go to a wedding this July, I would like to bring my DYI Lightsphere. However, it looks ugly and is clumsy to carry it around.

Rubber zoom ring on Nikkor 18-200mm

After about two years, the rubber zoom ring of my Nikkor 18-200mm VR lens showed signs of age. After Cuba, the rubber started to loosen up. It got stretched by about 3mm. I got so annoyed by the loose rubber ring. The feeling of looseness was not fitting with a camera, so I decided today to do something about it.

After playing around with it for a bit, I figured there was no glue holding it together. It was just a rubber ring. So I slid it out. What you see below is the underside of the rubber ring pulled over the extended barrel.


Here, I removed the rubber ring from the lens altogether:


I could not think of a way to compress the rubber ring so there was only one solution -- cut it (note the length of the segment was cut):


After cutting it, I wrapped the rubber "ring" around the lens and used Instant Krazy Glue to connect the two ends together. I use Krazy Glue for many things, including the Gary Fong Lightsphere imitation.


The Krazy Glue line looks like a scar but at least, the rubber ring feels good to the touch. It is tightly wound around the barrel.

Nikon sells these rings for $10 I believe.

Artic Butterfly, or not?

I have used Visible Dust's Artic Butterfly many times over. It worked flawlessly, always as expected ... until a couple of days ago.

Returning from a camping trip, I decided to clean my sensor for this weekend of dragonboat festival at the Toronto Centre Island. I was confident the Artic Butterfly will remove a couple of annoying specks of dust on my sensor.

Here was the before-cleaning shot:


After brushing across the screen once, here is what I got:



Yikes! I brushed across the screen a second time, and a third time. The gunk was stuck firm on the sensor filter!


I believe the edges of the sensor was very dirty. I must have touched the edge and dragged the dust or some other gunk across the sensor filter. It was horrific! I could even see the streaks of dust or other deposit on the sensor filter with the naked eye. Well, it was ruined I thought. I guess only Nikon Service could fix this mess. That meant lots of wasted time and trying to make it to their office before they close at 5pm or something like that. Just then, I remember Cesar had bought a wet cleaning kit.

Cesar's wet cleaning solution is called "ultrapure optic cleaning fluid" made by American Recorder. A few drops on the swab and a couple of swipes across the sensor filter removed most of the gunk, and another couple more swipes to remove all the gunk. A strand of the swab or dust got left behind on the right edge of the screen after the wet cleaning. I then used the Artic Butterfly to remove it.

After the first application of wet cleaning (still some dusts):


After a second application of the web cleaning and then the Artic Butterfly: